“The French twist is like a little black dress. It never goes out of style,” says Vivienne Mackinder. “What makes it current is how you deconstruct it.”
In its purest form, the classic French twist is “sleek, polished, and red-carpet ready,” says Mackinder, while modern takes can be “undone, textured, asymmetrical and playful.”
“Your artistry lies in knowing when to pull back into classic elegance and when to let strands escape,” she says, “creating something fashion-forward and lived-in.”
The multi-award-winning global stylist/ educator is including the French twist among the styles she’s teaching in her upcoming 2-day online styling class, Art of Hair Dressing Fundamentals Bootcamp on Nov. 9-10.
Here are Mackinder’s fundamentals for creating multiple versions of the iconic style, starting with two skills to know before going into it: the set and the twist.
Set for Success
A modern French twist begins with the set.
- Product Test: Too much or too little product will either collapse the style or make it stiff. Do a strand test first.
- Directional Set: The set must mirror the direction of the hairstyle. This gives volume, texture, and control.
Do the Twist
There are three core disciplines necessary to building modern versions of the classic twist.
- Backcomb for Days: The Stacking & Packing method is for shape and support, and Meshing is for control. The base must be compact and balanced in height, depth, and width.
- Sculpt & Pin: Precision pinning creates security, while sculpting defines shape. Together, they transform the foundation into a polished silhouette.
- Break It Down: Once the classic form is achieved, use various styling techniques to loosen, deconstruct, or reshape the style into something fresh and modern.
STEP BY STEP
1. Prep hair with thermal setting spray, then blow dry.
2. Use a large curling iron to set pattern from top of head down to nape. Clip each section to create a “cold set” and a strong base.
3. Run fingers through hair to relax the set.
4. Backcomb hair in sections using the “stack & pack” and “mesh” methods. Overdirect the sections to the back of the head.
5.
Classic: Create an upward twist at the back of the head, ensuring smoothness and a straight upward line before pinning into place.
Modern: Scrunch the hair at the back and “sew” the style into place at the point of finger grips, using a plastic needle and elastic thread.
6. Gently pull the hair apart by pinching and pulling to create “peaks and valleys” for a more relaxed, undone finish. Reinforce the divisions with a curling iron to create more separation. Add hairspray to hold in place.
“A French twist is a masterclass in discipline, design, and reinvention," Mackinder says. "Learn the fundamentals, then bend the rules to make it your own.
"That’s how you take a timeless style and make it modern."