After nearly three decades, veteran educator Rob Burgio has learned that the difference between a good haircut and a great one often comes down to just a few inches.
"We can do an incredible haircut," the Goldwell National Artist, entrepreneur, and Amplify the Stylist founder told his packed class at the International Beauty Show-Las Vegas, "but if we don't nail their fringe … it doesn't matter how good the rest is.”
Switch it Up: Start at the Front
Burgio challenges the traditional approach to layered haircuts by starting with face-framing layers, rather than building the haircut first and adding them at the end.
"Sometimes we waste too much time trying to perfect them at the end when we can perfect them in the beginning with clean, precise cutting," explains Burgio, who splits his time between his Buffalo, NY-area Tesoro Salon and the road as a traveling educator.
By establishing the face-framing foundation first, stylists can build the remaining haircut around these crucial elements.
Before making a single cut, Burgio emphasizes the importance of one critical question: "Where do you want your shortest piece to fall?"
This simple inquiry, conducted while both the stylist and the client look in the mirror together, eliminates guesswork. Whether the answer is at the cheekbone, chin, or jawline, this measurement becomes the guide that dictates the entire fringe structure.
"Let's get that out of the way immediately," Burgio advises. "We're talking with the client, showing them with our finger where that shortest piece will land. This consultation technique gets everyone on the same page from the start."
Symmetry Made Simple
Burgio's signature technique involves creating what he calls an "upside-down V" to establish proper angles for face-framing layers. This method ensures the fringe naturally follows the contours of the face while maintaining perfect symmetry.
The process begins by isolating triangular sections on each side of the part, creating a starting guide with minimal elevation. "If we can get this angle going immediately, automatically you're going to get the right positioning," he explains.
Key steps:
- Working with zero elevation to maintain length
- Using stationary guides for consistency
- Cutting from short to long on each side
- Maintaining visual connection to the center reference point
“This technique allows hair to be down to the client's waist and still have layers starting as short as you want," Burgio says.
"You could have layers starting at the nose with length at the shoulders, and you won't remove the overall weight, and it won't look choppy."
How to Nail the Curtains
For curtain fringe specifically, Burgio teaches a foolproof method for determining appropriate thickness. Using a comb placed at the highest point of the fringe area (not the crown), stylists create sections from where the comb meets the scalp to the outer corner of each eye.
This technique ensures the fringe depth is proportionate to the client's facial structure while providing enough hair to create the desired curtain effect.
"We can do a haircut and fringe one time, but can we do it great every six weeks for 15 years and keep clients happy? That's where simple fundamentals and consistent technique matter."
Slide Cut for Softness
Moving beyond basic blunt cuts, Burgio demonstrates a slide-cutting method that creates naturally textured perimeters without traditional layering. Using a Nova 5.5 Scissor, he "peels layers off" with a controlled sliding motion that creates subtle variation and movement.
"This gives us that really soft, razor-like serrated feel with points of interest, almost like a razor would give, but with more control," he explains. This technique is particularly effective for clients with fine hair who want curtain fringe without heavy layering.
Face Shape Fundamentals
While acknowledging that most clients have combination face shapes, Burgio still references classic principles:
- Square faces: Softer, wispy elements
- Long faces: Horizontal elements
- Round faces: Angular, structured fringe
- Oval faces: Versatile
"Most people have more than one shape in their face," he notes. "Don't try to pigeonhole yourself. These are launching points, not rigid rules."
Conquer Your Wacky Side
One of Burgio's most practical innovations addresses the common challenge stylists face when working on their non-dominant side. His solution involves approaching each side differently cutting from the front on the dominant side and from behind on the opposite side.
"We always have one side that's a little wacky, and it used to bother me like crazy," Burgio admits. "The problem usually happens because we don't cut one side from short to long, from the guide out."
By positioning fingers underneath the hair and letting the comb dictate placement on the challenging side, stylists maintain proper body positioning while achieving consistent results.
"Once you master this technique, you're going to say oh my God, I wish I'd been doing this forever."
The Long Game: Sustainable Success
Burgio's approach extends beyond technical skill to encompass business sustainability. His emphasis on consistency addresses a crucial challenge: how to deliver the same quality results for each client, appointment after appointment.
"An amazing haircut doesn't have to be an extravagant technique," Burgio says. "It just has to be right for that individual, right for that person. Even our trendiest haircuts start with fundamental foundations that we can build from."